Posts, Rails & Pickets
Last reviewed: May 2026
Calculate exact material quantities for fence projects: posts, rails, pickets, concrete for post holes, and hardware. The key measurements are total fence length, desired height, post spacing, and picket dimensions. Accurate planning prevents the common frustrations of running short on pickets or discovering you need more concrete for post holes than expected.1
| Fence Type | Height | Material $/ft | Installed $/ft | 100-ft Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wood privacy | 6 ft | $8–$15 | $15–$25 | $1,500–$2,500 |
| Wood picket | 4 ft | $5–$10 | $10–$18 | $1,000–$1,800 |
| Vinyl privacy | 6 ft | $12–$25 | $20–$40 | $2,000–$4,000 |
| Chain link | 4 ft | $5–$12 | $10–$20 | $1,000–$2,000 |
Fence costs swing wildly by material, and the cheapest upfront option isn't always the best value once you factor in how long it'll last. Pressure-treated pine is the budget standard at $12-25/linear foot installed for a 6-foot privacy fence, lasting 15-20 years with periodic staining. Cedar costs $20-35/linear foot and naturally resists rot for 15-25 years without chemical treatment, developing a silver-grey patina if left unstained. Composite fencing ($25-45/linear foot) mimics wood aesthetics but requires zero maintenance and lasts 25-50 years — the highest upfront cost but lowest cost-per-year when maintenance time is factored in. Vinyl/PVC ($20-40/linear foot) never rots, warps, or needs painting, lasting 20-30 years. Wrought iron ($25-60/linear foot) is ornamental and virtually permanent but provides no privacy. Chain link ($8-15/linear foot) is the cheapest option and works well for containing pets and defining boundaries but offers minimal privacy unless slats or mesh are added ($3-5/linear foot extra). For a typical 150 linear foot backyard fence at 6 feet tall, costs range from $1,800 (chain link) to $9,000+ (composite or wrought iron).
Getting your material estimate right the first time saves you from expensive mid-project trips to the lumberyard. Posts are spaced 6-8 feet apart (8 feet is standard for most wood fences): a 150-foot fence needs 150 ÷ 8 + 1 = 20 posts. Use 4×4 posts for fences under 6 feet and 6×6 for 6-foot and taller privacy fences. Post length = fence height + burial depth: a 6-foot fence needs 8-foot posts (2 feet buried, or 3 feet in frost-heavy regions). Rails (2×4 or 2×6 horizontal stringers) run between posts, with 2 rails for fences under 5 feet and 3 rails for 6-foot fences: 20 sections × 3 rails = 60 rail pieces. Pickets (1×4, 1×6, or dog-ear boards) depend on spacing: tight privacy with 6-inch pickets and no gaps needs 2 pickets per linear foot = 300 pickets for 150 feet. Adding 10% waste: 330 pickets. Concrete for post holes: each 10-inch diameter × 24-inch deep hole needs about 0.6 cubic feet of concrete, roughly one 50-lb bag of quick-set per post — 20 bags for 20 posts.
Fence disputes are one of the most common neighbor conflicts out there — and almost all of them are preventable with a little upfront planning. Before building, obtain a property survey ($300-600) to locate exact boundary lines — many "obvious" boundaries (old fences, hedges, natural features) are inaccurate by 1-3 feet. Most jurisdictions require fences to be set 2-6 inches inside the property line, making the fence entirely your property and responsibility. Building on or over the property line can result in forced removal at your expense. Building permits are required in most municipalities for fences over 4 feet tall: fees range from $50-200, and the permit ensures compliance with setback requirements, height limits, and utility easements. Many HOAs restrict fence materials (no chain link), colors (earth tones only), and heights (4 feet for front yards, 6 feet maximum for rear). Call 811 (national dig line) before digging post holes — hitting a buried gas line, fiber optic cable, or electrical conduit creates dangerous situations and expensive liability.
A basic 150-foot wood privacy fence costs approximately $2,500-4,000 in materials for a DIY installation versus $5,000-8,000 professionally installed — saving roughly 50%. However, DIY fencing requires specific tools (post hole digger or auger, level, string line, circular saw, impact driver), physical stamina (digging 20 post holes is genuinely exhausting), and 2-4 full days of work for two people. Common DIY mistakes that compromise the fence: posts not plumb (even 1 degree off becomes visible over 8 feet), posts not deep enough (causing lean or heave in freeze-thaw climates), inconsistent spacing (creating sections that look crooked), and failing to account for grade changes (causing gaps at the bottom on sloped terrain). Professional installers complete a 150-foot fence in 1-2 days with proper equipment and handle grading, rocky soil, and corner posts that challenge amateurs. For most homeowners, a simple flat-yard privacy fence is a realistic DIY project, while slopes, decorative styles, and gates are worth hiring out.
Gates are the fence component most likely to fail, typically sagging within 2-5 years if not properly built and supported. A single walk-through gate should be 36-42 inches wide; double drive-through gates need 10-12 feet of total opening for vehicles. Gate posts must be larger and more deeply set than line posts: use 6×6 posts buried 3 feet deep with extra concrete for any gate over 4 feet wide. Anti-sag hardware (diagonal cables or metal bracing) prevents the inevitable gravity-induced droop: install the brace from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, creating a triangle that transfers the gate's weight back to the hinge post. Heavy-duty hinges rated for the gate's weight (a 6-foot cedar gate weighs 60-80 lbs) should be lag-bolted through the post, not screwed into the surface. Self-closing hinges and magnetic latches add convenience and are required by code for pool fences in most jurisdictions.
Fence costs vary dramatically by material, and the cheapest option isn't always the best value over the fence's lifespan. Pressure-treated pine is the budget standard at $12-25/linear foot installed for a 6-foot privacy fence, lasting 15-20 years with periodic staining. Cedar costs $20-35/linear foot and naturally resists rot for 15-25 years without chemical treatment, developing a silver-grey patina if left unstained. Composite fencing ($25-45/linear foot) mimics wood aesthetics but requires zero maintenance and lasts 25-50 years — the highest upfront cost but lowest cost-per-year when maintenance time is factored in. Vinyl/PVC ($20-40/linear foot) never rots, warps, or needs painting, lasting 20-30 years. Wrought iron ($25-60/linear foot) is ornamental and virtually permanent but provides no privacy. Chain link ($8-15/linear foot) is the cheapest option and works well for containing pets and defining boundaries but offers minimal privacy unless slats or mesh are added ($3-5/linear foot extra). For a typical 150 linear foot backyard fence at 6 feet tall, costs range from $1,800 (chain link) to $9,000+ (composite or wrought iron).
Accurate material estimation prevents costly mid-project supply runs. Posts are spaced 6-8 feet apart (8 feet is standard for most wood fences): a 150-foot fence needs 150 ÷ 8 + 1 = 20 posts. Use 4×4 posts for fences under 6 feet and 6×6 for 6-foot and taller privacy fences. Post length = fence height + burial depth: a 6-foot fence needs 8-foot posts (2 feet buried, or 3 feet in frost-heavy regions). Rails (2×4 or 2×6 horizontal stringers) run between posts, with 2 rails for fences under 5 feet and 3 rails for 6-foot fences: 20 sections × 3 rails = 60 rail pieces. Pickets (1×4, 1×6, or dog-ear boards) depend on spacing: tight privacy with 6-inch pickets and no gaps needs 2 pickets per linear foot = 300 pickets for 150 feet. Adding 10% waste: 330 pickets. Concrete for post holes: each 10-inch diameter × 24-inch deep hole needs about 0.6 cubic feet of concrete, roughly one 50-lb bag of quick-set per post — 20 bags for 20 posts.
Fence disputes are among the most common neighbor conflicts, and most are preventable with proper planning. Before building, obtain a property survey ($300-600) to locate exact boundary lines — many "obvious" boundaries (old fences, hedges, natural features) are inaccurate by 1-3 feet. Most jurisdictions require fences to be set 2-6 inches inside the property line, making the fence entirely your property and responsibility. Building on or over the property line can result in forced removal at your expense. Building permits are required in most municipalities for fences over 4 feet tall: fees range from $50-200, and the permit ensures compliance with setback requirements, height limits, and utility easements. Many HOAs restrict fence materials (no chain link), colors (earth tones only), and heights (4 feet for front yards, 6 feet maximum for rear). Call 811 (national dig line) before digging post holes — hitting a buried gas line, fiber optic cable, or electrical conduit creates dangerous situations and expensive liability.
A basic 150-foot wood privacy fence costs approximately $2,500-4,000 in materials for a DIY installation versus $5,000-8,000 professionally installed — saving roughly 50%. However, DIY fencing requires specific tools (post hole digger or auger, level, string line, circular saw, impact driver), physical stamina (digging 20 post holes is genuinely exhausting), and 2-4 full days of work for two people. Common DIY mistakes that compromise the fence: posts not plumb (even 1 degree off becomes visible over 8 feet), posts not deep enough (causing lean or heave in freeze-thaw climates), inconsistent spacing (creating sections that look crooked), and failing to account for grade changes (causing gaps at the bottom on sloped terrain). Professional installers complete a 150-foot fence in 1-2 days with proper equipment and handle grading, rocky soil, and corner posts that challenge amateurs. For most homeowners, a simple flat-yard privacy fence is a realistic DIY project, while slopes, decorative styles, and gates are worth hiring out.
Gates are the fence component most likely to fail, typically sagging within 2-5 years if not properly built and supported. A single walk-through gate should be 36-42 inches wide; double drive-through gates need 10-12 feet of total opening for vehicles. Gate posts must be larger and more deeply set than line posts: use 6×6 posts buried 3 feet deep with extra concrete for any gate over 4 feet wide. Anti-sag hardware (diagonal cables or metal bracing) prevents the inevitable gravity-induced droop: install the brace from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, creating a triangle that transfers the gate's weight back to the hinge post. Heavy-duty hinges rated for the gate's weight (a 6-foot cedar gate weighs 60-80 lbs) should be lag-bolted through the post, not screwed into the surface. Self-closing hinges and magnetic latches add convenience and are required by code for pool fences in most jurisdictions.
Fence costs vary dramatically by material, and the cheapest option isn't always the best value over the fence's lifespan. Pressure-treated pine is the budget standard at $12-25/linear foot installed for a 6-foot privacy fence, lasting 15-20 years with periodic staining. Cedar costs $20-35/linear foot and naturally resists rot for 15-25 years without chemical treatment, developing a silver-grey patina if left unstained. Composite fencing ($25-45/linear foot) mimics wood aesthetics but requires zero maintenance and lasts 25-50 years — the highest upfront cost but lowest cost-per-year when maintenance time is factored in. Vinyl/PVC ($20-40/linear foot) never rots, warps, or needs painting, lasting 20-30 years. Wrought iron ($25-60/linear foot) is ornamental and virtually permanent but provides no privacy. Chain link ($8-15/linear foot) is the cheapest option and works well for containing pets and defining boundaries but offers minimal privacy unless slats or mesh are added ($3-5/linear foot extra). For a typical 150 linear foot backyard fence at 6 feet tall, costs range from $1,800 (chain link) to $9,000+ (composite or wrought iron).
Accurate material estimation prevents costly mid-project supply runs. Posts are spaced 6-8 feet apart (8 feet is standard for most wood fences): a 150-foot fence needs 150 ÷ 8 + 1 = 20 posts. Use 4×4 posts for fences under 6 feet and 6×6 for 6-foot and taller privacy fences. Post length = fence height + burial depth: a 6-foot fence needs 8-foot posts (2 feet buried, or 3 feet in frost-heavy regions). Rails (2×4 or 2×6 horizontal stringers) run between posts, with 2 rails for fences under 5 feet and 3 rails for 6-foot fences: 20 sections × 3 rails = 60 rail pieces. Pickets (1×4, 1×6, or dog-ear boards) depend on spacing: tight privacy with 6-inch pickets and no gaps needs 2 pickets per linear foot = 300 pickets for 150 feet. Adding 10% waste: 330 pickets. Concrete for post holes: each 10-inch diameter × 24-inch deep hole needs about 0.6 cubic feet of concrete, roughly one 50-lb bag of quick-set per post — 20 bags for 20 posts.
Fence disputes are among the most common neighbor conflicts, and most are preventable with proper planning. Before building, obtain a property survey ($300-600) to locate exact boundary lines — many "obvious" boundaries (old fences, hedges, natural features) are inaccurate by 1-3 feet. Most jurisdictions require fences to be set 2-6 inches inside the property line, making the fence entirely your property and responsibility. Building on or over the property line can result in forced removal at your expense. Building permits are required in most municipalities for fences over 4 feet tall: fees range from $50-200, and the permit ensures compliance with setback requirements, height limits, and utility easements. Many HOAs restrict fence materials (no chain link), colors (earth tones only), and heights (4 feet for front yards, 6 feet maximum for rear). Call 811 (national dig line) before digging post holes — hitting a buried gas line, fiber optic cable, or electrical conduit creates dangerous situations and expensive liability.
A basic 150-foot wood privacy fence costs approximately $2,500-4,000 in materials for a DIY installation versus $5,000-8,000 professionally installed — saving roughly 50%. However, DIY fencing requires specific tools (post hole digger or auger, level, string line, circular saw, impact driver), physical stamina (digging 20 post holes is genuinely exhausting), and 2-4 full days of work for two people. Common DIY mistakes that compromise the fence: posts not plumb (even 1 degree off becomes visible over 8 feet), posts not deep enough (causing lean or heave in freeze-thaw climates), inconsistent spacing (creating sections that look crooked), and failing to account for grade changes (causing gaps at the bottom on sloped terrain). Professional installers complete a 150-foot fence in 1-2 days with proper equipment and handle grading, rocky soil, and corner posts that challenge amateurs. For most homeowners, a simple flat-yard privacy fence is a realistic DIY project, while slopes, decorative styles, and gates are worth hiring out.
Gates are the fence component most likely to fail, typically sagging within 2-5 years if not properly built and supported. A single walk-through gate should be 36-42 inches wide; double drive-through gates need 10-12 feet of total opening for vehicles. Gate posts must be larger and more deeply set than line posts: use 6×6 posts buried 3 feet deep with extra concrete for any gate over 4 feet wide. Anti-sag hardware (diagonal cables or metal bracing) prevents the inevitable gravity-induced droop: install the brace from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, creating a triangle that transfers the gate's weight back to the hinge post. Heavy-duty hinges rated for the gate's weight (a 6-foot cedar gate weighs 60-80 lbs) should be lag-bolted through the post, not screwed into the surface. Self-closing hinges and magnetic latches add convenience and are required by code for pool fences in most jurisdictions.
Fence costs vary dramatically by material, and the cheapest option isn't always the best value over the fence's lifespan. Pressure-treated pine is the budget standard at $12-25/linear foot installed for a 6-foot privacy fence, lasting 15-20 years with periodic staining. Cedar costs $20-35/linear foot and naturally resists rot for 15-25 years without chemical treatment, developing a silver-grey patina if left unstained. Composite fencing ($25-45/linear foot) mimics wood aesthetics but requires zero maintenance and lasts 25-50 years — the highest upfront cost but lowest cost-per-year when maintenance time is factored in. Vinyl/PVC ($20-40/linear foot) never rots, warps, or needs painting, lasting 20-30 years. Wrought iron ($25-60/linear foot) is ornamental and virtually permanent but provides no privacy. Chain link ($8-15/linear foot) is the cheapest option and works well for containing pets and defining boundaries but offers minimal privacy unless slats or mesh are added ($3-5/linear foot extra). For a typical 150 linear foot backyard fence at 6 feet tall, costs range from $1,800 (chain link) to $9,000+ (composite or wrought iron).
Accurate material estimation prevents costly mid-project supply runs. Posts are spaced 6-8 feet apart (8 feet is standard for most wood fences): a 150-foot fence needs 150 ÷ 8 + 1 = 20 posts. Use 4×4 posts for fences under 6 feet and 6×6 for 6-foot and taller privacy fences. Post length = fence height + burial depth: a 6-foot fence needs 8-foot posts (2 feet buried, or 3 feet in frost-heavy regions). Rails (2×4 or 2×6 horizontal stringers) run between posts, with 2 rails for fences under 5 feet and 3 rails for 6-foot fences: 20 sections × 3 rails = 60 rail pieces. Pickets (1×4, 1×6, or dog-ear boards) depend on spacing: tight privacy with 6-inch pickets and no gaps needs 2 pickets per linear foot = 300 pickets for 150 feet. Adding 10% waste: 330 pickets. Concrete for post holes: each 10-inch diameter × 24-inch deep hole needs about 0.6 cubic feet of concrete, roughly one 50-lb bag of quick-set per post — 20 bags for 20 posts.
Fence disputes are among the most common neighbor conflicts, and most are preventable with proper planning. Before building, obtain a property survey ($300-600) to locate exact boundary lines — many "obvious" boundaries (old fences, hedges, natural features) are inaccurate by 1-3 feet. Most jurisdictions require fences to be set 2-6 inches inside the property line, making the fence entirely your property and responsibility. Building on or over the property line can result in forced removal at your expense. Building permits are required in most municipalities for fences over 4 feet tall: fees range from $50-200, and the permit ensures compliance with setback requirements, height limits, and utility easements. Many HOAs restrict fence materials (no chain link), colors (earth tones only), and heights (4 feet for front yards, 6 feet maximum for rear). Call 811 (national dig line) before digging post holes — hitting a buried gas line, fiber optic cable, or electrical conduit creates dangerous situations and expensive liability.
A basic 150-foot wood privacy fence costs approximately $2,500-4,000 in materials for a DIY installation versus $5,000-8,000 professionally installed — saving roughly 50%. However, DIY fencing requires specific tools (post hole digger or auger, level, string line, circular saw, impact driver), physical stamina (digging 20 post holes is genuinely exhausting), and 2-4 full days of work for two people. Common DIY mistakes that compromise the fence: posts not plumb (even 1 degree off becomes visible over 8 feet), posts not deep enough (causing lean or heave in freeze-thaw climates), inconsistent spacing (creating sections that look crooked), and failing to account for grade changes (causing gaps at the bottom on sloped terrain). Professional installers complete a 150-foot fence in 1-2 days with proper equipment and handle grading, rocky soil, and corner posts that challenge amateurs. For most homeowners, a simple flat-yard privacy fence is a realistic DIY project, while slopes, decorative styles, and gates are worth hiring out.
Gates are the fence component most likely to fail, typically sagging within 2-5 years if not properly built and supported. A single walk-through gate should be 36-42 inches wide; double drive-through gates need 10-12 feet of total opening for vehicles. Gate posts must be larger and more deeply set than line posts: use 6×6 posts buried 3 feet deep with extra concrete for any gate over 4 feet wide. Anti-sag hardware (diagonal cables or metal bracing) prevents the inevitable gravity-induced droop: install the brace from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, creating a triangle that transfers the gate's weight back to the hinge post. Heavy-duty hinges rated for the gate's weight (a 6-foot cedar gate weighs 60-80 lbs) should be lag-bolted through the post, not screwed into the surface. Self-closing hinges and magnetic latches add convenience and are required by code for pool fences in most jurisdictions.
Fence costs vary dramatically by material, and the cheapest option isn't always the best value over the fence's lifespan. Pressure-treated pine is the budget standard at $12-25/linear foot installed for a 6-foot privacy fence, lasting 15-20 years with periodic staining. Cedar costs $20-35/linear foot and naturally resists rot for 15-25 years without chemical treatment, developing a silver-grey patina if left unstained. Composite fencing ($25-45/linear foot) mimics wood aesthetics but requires zero maintenance and lasts 25-50 years — the highest upfront cost but lowest cost-per-year when maintenance time is factored in. Vinyl/PVC ($20-40/linear foot) never rots, warps, or needs painting, lasting 20-30 years. Wrought iron ($25-60/linear foot) is ornamental and virtually permanent but provides no privacy. Chain link ($8-15/linear foot) is the cheapest option and works well for containing pets and defining boundaries but offers minimal privacy unless slats or mesh are added ($3-5/linear foot extra). For a typical 150 linear foot backyard fence at 6 feet tall, costs range from $1,800 (chain link) to $9,000+ (composite or wrought iron).
Accurate material estimation prevents costly mid-project supply runs. Posts are spaced 6-8 feet apart (8 feet is standard for most wood fences): a 150-foot fence needs 150 ÷ 8 + 1 = 20 posts. Use 4×4 posts for fences under 6 feet and 6×6 for 6-foot and taller privacy fences. Post length = fence height + burial depth: a 6-foot fence needs 8-foot posts (2 feet buried, or 3 feet in frost-heavy regions). Rails (2×4 or 2×6 horizontal stringers) run between posts, with 2 rails for fences under 5 feet and 3 rails for 6-foot fences: 20 sections × 3 rails = 60 rail pieces. Pickets (1×4, 1×6, or dog-ear boards) depend on spacing: tight privacy with 6-inch pickets and no gaps needs 2 pickets per linear foot = 300 pickets for 150 feet. Adding 10% waste: 330 pickets. Concrete for post holes: each 10-inch diameter × 24-inch deep hole needs about 0.6 cubic feet of concrete, roughly one 50-lb bag of quick-set per post — 20 bags for 20 posts.
Fence disputes are among the most common neighbor conflicts, and most are preventable with proper planning. Before building, obtain a property survey ($300-600) to locate exact boundary lines — many "obvious" boundaries (old fences, hedges, natural features) are inaccurate by 1-3 feet. Most jurisdictions require fences to be set 2-6 inches inside the property line, making the fence entirely your property and responsibility. Building on or over the property line can result in forced removal at your expense. Building permits are required in most municipalities for fences over 4 feet tall: fees range from $50-200, and the permit ensures compliance with setback requirements, height limits, and utility easements. Many HOAs restrict fence materials (no chain link), colors (earth tones only), and heights (4 feet for front yards, 6 feet maximum for rear). Call 811 (national dig line) before digging post holes — hitting a buried gas line, fiber optic cable, or electrical conduit creates dangerous situations and expensive liability.
A basic 150-foot wood privacy fence costs approximately $2,500-4,000 in materials for a DIY installation versus $5,000-8,000 professionally installed — saving roughly 50%. However, DIY fencing requires specific tools (post hole digger or auger, level, string line, circular saw, impact driver), physical stamina (digging 20 post holes is genuinely exhausting), and 2-4 full days of work for two people. Common DIY mistakes that compromise the fence: posts not plumb (even 1 degree off becomes visible over 8 feet), posts not deep enough (causing lean or heave in freeze-thaw climates), inconsistent spacing (creating sections that look crooked), and failing to account for grade changes (causing gaps at the bottom on sloped terrain). Professional installers complete a 150-foot fence in 1-2 days with proper equipment and handle grading, rocky soil, and corner posts that challenge amateurs. For most homeowners, a simple flat-yard privacy fence is a realistic DIY project, while slopes, decorative styles, and gates are worth hiring out.
Gates are the fence component most likely to fail, typically sagging within 2-5 years if not properly built and supported. A single walk-through gate should be 36-42 inches wide; double drive-through gates need 10-12 feet of total opening for vehicles. Gate posts must be larger and more deeply set than line posts: use 6×6 posts buried 3 feet deep with extra concrete for any gate over 4 feet wide. Anti-sag hardware (diagonal cables or metal bracing) prevents the inevitable gravity-induced droop: install the brace from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, creating a triangle that transfers the gate's weight back to the hinge post. Heavy-duty hinges rated for the gate's weight (a 6-foot cedar gate weighs 60-80 lbs) should be lag-bolted through the post, not screwed into the surface. Self-closing hinges and magnetic latches add convenience and are required by code for pool fences in most jurisdictions.
→ Check property lines. A fence built over the line is a costly mistake.
→ Call 811 before digging. Utility locating is free and required by law.
→ Set corner posts first. String a line between them for perfectly straight fence lines.
→ Use pressure-treated. Ground-contact posts must be pressure-treated to prevent rot.
See also: Concrete · Lumber · Paint · Budget